Sunday 22 December 2013

WES Electrical Westend Glasgow


Westend Glasgow Electricians employ three full-time electricians.

Between them they have over 50 years experience in all aspects of electrical works including Domestic Housing, Commercial and Industrial.


Each of our electricians are:



Fully qualified to 17th edition Regulations

Fully qualified to City and Guilds 2391 Inspection, Testing and Certification


 At Westend Glasgow Electricians we have a well deserved reputation for being dependable, professional, reliable, and for carrying out all works to a high standard of quality at a very reasonable price.

DOMESTIC HOUSING

In order to give a top quality service we make sure to carry a stock of the most commonly requested items on our vans. This ensures that if the work we are asked to carry out is one of the most common things, for example changing a light fitting, or a light switch or socket, or adding additional sockets, we do not have to spend time going away to an electrical supplier to collect these items. This keeps the cost of the work down and enables us to provide an excellent service at a very reasonable price.For smaller works we are usually able to attend your home at a time of your choosing and advise on the best way of carrying out the work in the most cost effective manner. We will be able to give you a price there and then, and if you are happy with the price we can carry out the work straight away. This saves having to make a second visit and helps to keep the cost to a minimum.

Our electricians always make sure to keep disruption to a minimum while carrying out the works, and on completion carry out a thorough clean-up.



Westend Glasgow Electricians carry out all aspects of electrical works to Domestic Housing ranging from a Full Rewire to changing Plug Sockets and Lights.

  

At Wes electrical all quotes are given free of charge and at no obligation.

Monday 9 December 2013

FUSE BOARD INSTALLATIONS GLASGOW

changing a fusebox


FUSE BOARD CHANGING call 01418405236

Westend glasgow electricians

Fuse Board Changing by Westend Glasgow Electricians
The electrical fuse board is the brain that controls all the wiring in your property with every circuit carrying electrical current in your building leading back to this one single place. Many properties are still operating on fuse boards and electrical wiring that were installed in the 1960s. These ageing installations are functional, but fall far short of modern safety standards. If your fuses keep breaking it could be that now is the time to think about changing your old fuse board for a modern one that offers better protection.
Westend Glasgow Electricians are a team of professional and qualified electricians operating all over west end glasgow, so, if you are looking for an electrician in Glasgow, Lambeth or Croydon for example, then we are perfectly placed to help. In addition to fuse board changes, our services cover anything electrical from simply adding an extra plug socket, to a full-scale rewire. Every job we do works to make the electrical circuitry in your property safer, and follows the strict guidelines laid down by the BS7671 Wiring Regulations (17th Amendment 1, 2011). Changing your fuse board is a significant step towards bringing electrical safety in your home closer to meeting these standards.
Modern fuse boards are fitted with RCDs, or Residual Current Devices, and MCBs, or Micro Circuit Breakers. These efficient devices are designed to detect faults in your circuits, and cut the current in an instant should anything unusual be identified. Significantly reducing the risk of electric shock and the sparks or overheating that can cause electrical fires, these modern circuit breakers offer great peace of mind.
Also known as a fuse box, consumer unit or consumer board, the fuse board in your property needs to be equipped to cope with the demands of modern household appliances. Taken together, things like fridges, electric kettles, washing machines and dishwashers are much more power-hungry than anything that was around when the old fuse boards were first installed. Your new fuse board will be fitted with sufficient breakers to cope with these elevated power demands within your property, with each circuit being protected more effectively than ever before.
Fuse board changing is a relatively straightforward task that can generally be done within a few hours depending on the number of circuits in your property, and the complexity of the wiring currently in place. The change can only legally be effected by a qualified electrician who is Part P registered.  It is necessary when changing a fuse board to ensure that the earth-bonding arrangements in your property meet current standards, and are upgraded if required. The fuse board replacement cost will vary according to your requirements, but is not as expensive as you may imagine, and it’s a small price to pay for your security.
At Westend glasgow Electricians we have been providing electrical services to domestic and commercial clients in South London for over 20 years. Customers looking for an Emergency Electrician in partick, a fuse board change in Bromley, or a new plug socket in glasgow know that engaging the services of our team of experts will deliver fast, efficient and professional results, every time.

DIY DANGERS

There are so many programmes and articles on how to D.I.Y and sometimes, it is easier to watch a YouTube video and have a go yourself. Some jobs however are better left to the professionals. Especially with electrics where you can be seriously harmed if something goes wrong.
One of the biggest dangers of doing DIY electrical work is the electricity itself. We are so used to pressing buttons or flipping a switch we forget how powerful it can be. The slightest mistake like using the wrong tools, brushing a wire against another or forgetting to turn of the power, can lead to anything from electric burns to death. While you may be fine Googling how to change a fuse, it is always better to contact reliable and cost effective professionals like Westend Glasgow Electricians, to ensure no avoidable accidents occur.
Professionals at Westend Glasgow Electricians know exactly how to test circuits and find out where problems are coming from. This can be more difficult in older houses with dodgy wiring and the labelling on the fuse box has faded. Not only are you creating hazards when you carry out electric work yourself, you may not be meeting regulations. This could lead to a lot more problems like invalidating any home insurance if the problem was caused by work not following standards. By using a qualified and registered electrician, you can rest assured they are covered by their insurance and will carry out the job professionally and can be held accountable.
If you’re in doubt, it is always better to use a professional so call west end glasgow Electricians today to get free advice.

Sunday 3 November 2013

Kitchen fitter in Westend Glasgow


WESTFIELD KITCHENS BRINGS TO YOU AN OVERVIEW OF FITTING A KITCHEN IN WESTEND GLASGOW.


WE ARE PROFESSIONAL KITCHEN FITTERS FEEL FREE TO VISIT OUR WEBSITE FOR MORE INFO www.westfieldkitchens.co.uk

If you are planning to fit your own kitchen then just follow our step-by-step guides and instructions to help you on your way. We have included photos to assist the DIYer and to give you a better understanding on how your stunning new kitchen can be built.
Not only will you save hundreds of pounds by fitting a kitchen yourself, but you will also have a great sense of pride once it has been fitted.
Fitting a New Kitchen

FITTING A NEW KITCHEN – 1 What you need

To completely fit a new kitchen you need to be a competent DIYer, with good skills in carpentry and a good knowledge of electrical and plumbing work. If some of the work needs to be carried out by a plumber, (Gas Safe registered for gas work) joiner or an electrician then these are costs that need to be considered. Even with these costs you can save a lot of money fitting the kitchen units yourself. I was recently quoted around £1500 to fit a basic kitchen and the quote excluded plumbing and electrical work so there are great savings to be made with DIY.


Fitting a new kitchen isn’t a ‘two minute job’ and requires a lot of tools :-
Battery drill / driver plus wood and masonry drill bits, electricians screwdrivers, power / pipe detector, claw / lump hammers, bolster chisel, spirit level, pliers, side cutters, pump pliers, saw, Jigsaw, tape measure, sealant gun, square, marker pens.
Don’t forget safety equipment such as goggles, face mask and gloves. If you are using 240volt power tools use an RCD protection device.
Always remember Safety comes First, check before starting work where the services are in the kitchen, use a power / pipe detector to check for hidden live cables and water / gas pipes before removing the old kitchen units, drilling holes or chasing out walls.

FITTING A NEW KITCHEN WESTEND GLASGOW – 2 Plan the layout

To plan your new kitchen layout start by taking measurements of the kitchen area, when you have finished it is worthwhile double checking your measurements to save a lot of future problems.
These are some points to consider with your layout :-
The sink unit is usually positioned under a window.
Sink units and hobs should not be positioned too near or on a joint in a worktop.
Washing machines and dishwashers should ideally be positioned near the sink as this will reduce the amount of plumbing required.
Hobs require space on either side for pan handles.
Extraction units should be installed either near, or preferably on, an outside wall.
Don’t ‘box in’ any gas appliances as they require good airflow for correct operation and safety.
Are the existing services in suitable positions for your new kitchen layout, i.e. sockets and switches should not be positioned above hobs or cookers.
Will the new kitchen be user friendly and practical.
Wall units and the base units below them, should where possible, be the same width, so doors and handles line up.
Sockets should be around 150mm from the finished worktop to allow room for the plug top flex, they can of course go higher, if you know the size of tiles you are going to use, it is in my opinion easier to tile if the socket(s) are on the tile line.
Before you carry out any electrical work in the home check out the building regulations on the Government or local authority website specifically the Part P regulations  and Electrical safety in the home. Although I am aware of the current rules it is worth reading the latest regulations as they have been updated in the past.
Any gas work will require a Gas Safe registered  plumber / engineer.
When you have made a list of the units required for the kitchen don’t forget all the extras such as cornice, pelmet, plinth, corner post, jointing kit with coloured jointing compound, water waste kit, decorative clad end panels to match the doors, including maybe an extra one to use for filling any gaps, any appliance doors, etc.

FITTING A NEW KITCHEN WESTEND GLASGOW – 3 Preparation

The first step towards fitting your new kitchen is removing the old one. Wear the appropriate safety equipment, gloves, goggles, etc.
Remove all the doors, drawers and shelves first, then remove any screws that are fixing the worktop(s) to the base units. If the worktop edges are under tiles you may have to remove some, if not all of them to ‘free up’ the worktop. Some old kitchens have the worktop glued to the base units so the only removal solution may be a lump hammer and crowbar.
The units themselves should be relatively easy to remove and come apart fairly easily, especially with ones trusty lump hammer, but watch out for hidden cables and pipes, an indoor pool is not always appreciated. Once the water is turned off, the pipes cut and the sink unit removed, it is a good idea to fit in-line / gate valves to the remaining pipes, at least this enables the water to be turned back on, and fitting new pipework should hopefully not have to interrupt the water supply. Try and get some assistance when removing the wall units as they may be heavy or simply awkward to handle by yourself.
If you are disconnecting any electrical supplies, switch off the consumer unit and remove the fuse / miniature circuit breaker as well, this reduces the chance of the circuit becoming ‘live’ if the consumer unit is switched back on by accident, double check the supply is ‘dead’ at the point of disconnection, if in doubt use the services of a qualified electrician as electric shocks can be fatal. Don’t attempt to disconnect any gas supplies, the law says this can only be carried out by a Gas Safe registered  plumber / engineer.
So now the kitchen area is cleared, any repairs to existing walls and floors can be carried out. Holes in walls for air extraction and waste pipes can drilled / knocked through, electrics and plumbing can be installed to suit your new kitchen, don’t forget electrical supplies for wall unit lighting and the extract fan if they aren’t already in position, usually when an oven and separate hob is installed the oven comes fitted with a 13amp plug top and may require the installation of an extra socket outlet, the electric hob is then connected to the cooker switch, as this can have a much higher current demand.

FITTING A NEW KITCHEN WESTEND GLASGOW – 4 Where to start


Your new kitchen units have been delivered and the kitchen area is ready for the install, but where do you start ?. The first job to do is check the level of the floor, wherever the highest point is measure up 870mm and mark the wall, this measurement allows 720mm for the base unit and 150mm for the plinth. From your mark draw a level line using your spirit level across the wall(s), this is the guideline for all your base units, now measure up from the 870mm mark to the bottom of your wall units (this measurement is down to personal preference) , I would suggest 400 – 440mm, from this mark draw a level line across the wall(s), and finally measure up from the mark to the top of the wall units i.e. 720mm, and once more draw a level line across the wall(s). Now double check your lines are all level.
Create a space where the units can be assembled, some of the unit flat-packs can be very heavy, so get assistance when lifting them, use the cardboard packaging to cover the floor to stop the units from getting scratched, and keep all the hinges and coloured blanks in a box for later. Assembling the first unit using the instructions can take a while, but once you have an assembly method the rest will go together quite quickly. If you are using a battery drill / driver without torque control take care not to over tighten screws, it is sometimes safer to use a screwdriver for the last one or two turns.
If your kitchen is in a ‘L’ or ‘U’ shape start fitting the units from the corner working out in both directions. Before fixing the wall units I prefer to place the first base unit levelled up and in position, then I mark the wall with a vertical line from its edge so I have guideline for the wall units so they will line up with the base units. Wall units usually come with two fixing brackets each, when you have assembled the wall unit, measure where the fixing brackets need to be in order for it to ‘hook on’, transfer the measurements to your wall and fix the brackets securely, I normally drill the fixing(s) at a slightly downward angle as this reduces the chance of the fixing ‘pulling out’. Use good quality fixings and in the case of plasterboard, use cavity fixings where the brackets don’t land on a wall stud. For peace of mind on a plasterboard wall I always fit additional angle brackets between the wall studs and the top of the wall unit so I know I have a good fixing, they may be a little unsightly but they are usually out of sight and can be painted or papered over, at least you know the wall unit won’t become a base unit overnight !. Mount each wall unit checking them with a spirit level and making sure the edges are flush as you go along, they are adjustable via two screws inside either top corner of the wall unit, one screw raises or lowers the unit, the other pulls the unit tight against the fixing bracket and locks it in position. At this stage don’t worry about any small gaps between the wall unit end and the wall itself.
As I explained earlier in this post, start installing the base units from the corner ( if you have one ), make sure each unit is level before moving onto the next one, use your 870mm level line as the guide, The sink base unit will of course require holes drilling to allow the water / waste pipes through to the bottom of the sink unit, Don’t fix the units to the wall until they are all in position and you are sure they are all level. Most flat-pack kitchen units come with two male / female bolts that can be fitted between each unit, these usually require a hole drilling of approximately 5mm dia through the sides of the units, but when fitted hold the units together and keep the edges flush ( drill new holes for the bolts, don’t be tempted to use existing ones as they may be for drawer runners, etc ).

FITTING A NEW KITCHEN WESTEND GLASGOW – 5 Worktops

I am assuming for the purpose of this post that you will be using joint strips between the worktop edges, you can of course cut a mitre joint using a router and jig but this is a task where I would use the services of a skilled joiner, these cuts have to be precise and the cost, not forgetting the wait for a replacement worktop, has in the past put me off having a go. If you are skilled and confident enough to cut a mitre joint, check first that your router has a collet big enough to take an half inch (13mm) router bit, as the ‘bits’ which cut to worktop depth usually as far as I am aware have an half inch (13mm) shank, whereas most DIY routers will only take up to an 8mm shank. Butt joints (worktops joining edge to edge) are easier but have to be cut accurately, on the reverse side of the worktop(s), slots have to be cut-out using a router and jig, clamping brackets which sit in these slots are then tightened from below when the worktop is in position on top of the kitchen units.
Worktop jointing clamps
Worktop jointing clamps
Coloured joint sealant and solvent
Coloured joint sealant and solvent







Try not to have the joint too near any of  the ends of the base units as the clamps may be difficult to gain access to and tighten up. Coloured jointing sealant should be put onto one edge of the two sections of worktop and as you tighten the clamps check constantly how flush the worktop edges are simply by touch, take care not to over-tighten the clamps as the finished edge of the worktop might start to ‘lift’ . When you are satisfied with the quality of the joint, clean away surplus joint sealant with the solvent that should be supplied with it. Incidentally the coloured sealant is very handy to mask any small chips or scratches that may unfortunately occur during the fitting of the worktop(s).
  • Fitting kitchen worktops requires assistance, not only for cutting them to length, but also because of their size and weight, the last thing you want to do is to damage one when placing it on top of the new kitchen units. If you have a ‘U’ or ‘L’ shaped kitchen start with the centre or ‘back’ worktop. Before you cut the worktop to length measure along both the back and front edges of your base units just in case the walls are not quite square and transfer these measurements to your worktop. Double check your measurements and remember you can allow a few millimetres for any end that will have wall tiles overlapping the worktop edge, then do the cut, this can be done using a woodsaw, but a jigsaw certainly makes the task easier, just remember to use goggles and a face mask, if you can’t see your cutting mark on the worktop use masking tape and re-mark the cutting line. When positioning the worktops on the base units you may have to chase out a bit of plaster along the wall to allow the worktop front edge to line up with the base units, ideally the worktop should extend over the base units front edge by an equal amount along its whole length.
  • Now measure the other worktop(s) again, across both the front and back edges of the base units and cut to size allowing for the joint strip. Seal the end of the worktop with either pva glue or clear sealant before fitting the joint strip to stop any future liquid spillage from damaging the worktop. When you are satisfied the worktop(s) are sitting on the base units correctly you can mark out your cuts for the sink unit and hob, once again use masking tape if you cannot see your marking out clearly. If you are fortunate the sink unit and hob will come with templates to mark the worktop for cutting out. Generally the hole to be cut is around 5 – 10mm less than the circumference of the sink unit or the hob. The sink unit can be placed face down on the worktop, the circumference can be marked out, then reduce this cut by the appropriate measurement all round. The hob may have no template but should have the cut out dimensions supplied with it, these dimensions need to be marked out very accurately and make sure the hob is in the position you want it . Double check your measurements before making any cuts in the worktop (I fitted a hob recently which only had a 5mm edge that rested on the worktop so I must have checked my marking out at least several times). These cuts can then be made using a jigsaw. When you have completed the cuts and the worktop(s) are back in position they can be fixed using the screws supplied with the base units. Again seal the cut-outs of the worktops with pva glue or clear sealant prior to fitting the sink unit and hob.


  • FITTING A NEW KITCHEN – 6 Finishing the project
  • Fitting the hob and sink unit is fairly straightforward, both come with clips that hold them down tightly to the worktop. Hobs usually have a thin foam or rubber seal around the edge and this is sufficient to keep any liquids out. Only you know whether you are competent enough to reconnect the hob to the electrical supply. I would recommend you use a qualified electrician who will use the correct size / type of cable and connect the hob correctly for safe use. With gas hobs you should use a Gas safe registered  plumber / engineer to connect the hob to the gas supply.
  • Before fitting the sink unit, if possible fit the tap(s) with two flexible water pipes to it, each around 30cm long (which will save a lot of time when reconnecting the pipework) and also run a bead of clear sealant approximately 6 – 8mm thick under the edge of the sink unit which should be more than adequate to keep out any liquid, then position the sink unit in place and tighten the clips until it is secure. Be careful not to over-tighten the clips as they tend to ping off and are difficult to refit. Remove any excess sealant from the outer edge of the sink unit. Now you can fit the waste pipework and finish plumbing in the water pipes to the tap. Now the plinths can be cut to length and fitted, they usually attach to the base unit legs via plastic clips that are fixed to the reverse side of the plinth. The cornice and pelmet can also be cut to length. Using a mitre saw power tool can give a very
  • Fixing blocks
  • Fixing blocks
  • good quality, clean cut and therefore a better finish, especially if any angled cuts are required. Don’t forget the goggles and face mask. You may want to wait before cutting the pelmet to length as any tiled walls could alter its required length. Both the cornice and pelmet can be fitted to the wall units using fixing blocks with of course the correct size screws. Wall unit lights can be fitted, but again you may wish to wait until any tiling has been completed.
  • So finally the drawers and doors can be fitted, drawers are relatively easy to assemble following the instructions. Attach one door at a time to the units, hinges are normally in two parts, one for the unit and one for the door. Fit the unit one(s) first so they are ready to accept the door. Now fit the other parts to the door.
  • Two part hinge
  • Two part hinge
  • Handles both for the doors and drawers may require two fixing holes being drilled, there are dimple marks on the reverse of the doors to indicate where to drill the holes, these holes should be drilled as straight as possible and with the correct size drillbit to suit the fixing screws for the handles. When fitting the doors make sure the two parts of hinge mate together correctly otherwise it will be difficult to adjust the door. As you look at the hinge, the screw at the back holds the door in place, the other one enables you to adjust the door later for alignment. When all the doors are fitted they can be adjusted so gaps between them are even and all doors are level.
  • Chrome door handles
  • Chrome door handles
  • When finishing off the new kitchen its worth sealing any gaps at the back of the worktops with clear sealant so there is less risk of water damage before the wall(s) are tiled. Any small gaps between the kitchen units and the wall(s) can be filled using cuts of decorative clad end panel, doing this gives the kitchen a more professional finish. As shown in one of the images below I partly filled a gap between a washing machine and a wall using a piece of 75 x 15mm timber with cabinet magnets on the reverse for ease of removal, then simply tiled the timber using liquid nails as an adhesive, it was simple to do and  leaves a small gap for washing machine movement. The last job aside cleaning up and telling everyone how hard you have had to work like I do, is to blank any pre-drilled holes in the units with the plastic blanks / caps that come with the units.
  • Below are a selection of thumbnail images from a recent new kitchen install. They show before and after, etc.
  •  
  •  
  •  
  •  
  •  






Wednesday 23 October 2013

Glasgow Harbour Electricians Westend

The Best Way To Connect Recessed Downlights- Push Fit JCC 7Watt LEDs Westend Glasgow Electricians

 
JCC-JC94172-7watt-LED-Downlight
I'm always keen to find easier ways to do various aspects of electrical work. As an electrician I've spent many hours terminating cables which often involves tightening screws and have generally thought that this was the best method for the job.
Screw type terminals are 'tried and tested' and feature in most electrical accessories from dist boards to light switches, but now I'm coming across more and more light fittings which use push type connectors.
I may be 'old school' but when I'm faced a push-fit electrical terminal I'm very wary of wether it is up to the job. I must say that Wago connectors are an exception. A quality product which I like to use, but generally most light fittings the push types are not good. I've too often had a cable pull out of the connection after only the slightest movement and sometimes I've discarded them altogether.
Installing recessed downlights can be rather a chore especially when you're undertaking the monotonous task of connecting dozens of them at a time. On a recent job I used JCC Fireguard 7 watt LED (JC94172) downlights with integral driver. I was very sceptical when I found that they used push fit terminals and was considering changing them for something else. But I'm glad I didn't because despite my preconceptions I was very pleasantly surprised at how they 'actually worked' and made the job much quicker for an electrician.
Once you've cut all your holes and figured out a good installation procedure, which includes exactly how long to cut each cable core, the push fit connectors can make the down lights very easy to install:
1- Pre-cut each cable core to the correct length
2- Ease off the screwless lid and cable clamp
3- Sleeve the Earths and push the LN&Es into the connector
4- Push on the ratchet type cable clamp and click shut the lid
That's it. Job done and the best part is 'no screwing'!
I did experiment a bit and found that the connecting the earths could be made a little easier (as they are a smaller diameter and sometimes folded back) by leaving them about 25mm long and pushing them home last of all with a pair of long nose pliers.
I'd never thought I'd say this but if you're using a light fitting with quality push type connectors, like the JCC 7watt LEDs, then that's the best way to connect recessed downlights. I do wonder, why don't more manufacturers use this connection method?

if in doubt contact a qualified electrician

Tuesday 22 October 2013

24/7 Emergency call out electricians

Electrical ~ Tips for Staying Safe


Wes Electrical services 24/7 emergency call out electricians westend glasgow.
Benjamin Franklin studied electricity, and is quite famous even today for his kite and key experiment with lightning. We must always remember that Ben could have been seriously injured during that experiment. It is never a good idea to be careless with something as powerful as electrical energy!
Electricity has the power to light lamps that help us see at night and fuel heaters that keep us warm in winter, but it is important not to get in electricity's way because it can harm you. Here are a few electrical safety tips to remember:

  • Never play with electrical cords, wires, switches, or plugs.
  • Stay away from fallen power lines. Tell an adult if you see a fallen line.
  • Never use a hairdryer or play an electrical radio or television near a bathtub or sink.
  • Before you climb a tree, look up. If a power line is nearby or touching, stay away from the tree.
  • Never touch anything that runs on electricity when your hands are wet.
  • Fly kites and model airplanes in a wide open field or park—never near overhead electrical wires.
  • Never climb utility poles or electrical towers.
  • always isolate power before work
  • Stay away from substations and transformers
  • if in doubt contact a qualified electrician

Sunday 8 September 2013

Electrical Safety Advice GLASGOW

ELECTRICIANS WESTEND GLASGOW


Electrical Tips from a local Electrician in the westend of glasgow




  • Don’t remove a plug from a power point by pulling on the cord; pull the plug instead.
  • Never plug adaptors into adaptors and avoid using adaptors filled with plugs where possible.
  • Switch off electrical items that are not in regular use at the plug and ensure that when we are away from the house for any length of time that you unplug and switch off electrical items as items left plugged in can be a fire risk and waste energy if left on standby.
  • Do not use any electrical items in the bathroom unless specifically designed for use there, eg. Shavers and electric toothbrushes. Even with these items however, take care not to get wet and avoid plugging and unplugging with wet hands.
  • Do not use items with damaged cords so that the wires are exposed. Either repair or replace. Check items regularly.
  • Do not use damaged sockets, replace with care when necessary.
  • Always turn the electrics off at the mains if carrying out any electrical repairs and only attempt repairs if you know what you are doing.
  • Ensure any electrical items are approved standard when purchasing and keep them correctly maintained where necessary. Look for the BEAB seal of approval.
  • Do not use electrical equipment outside if it’s raining.
  • Use the correct wattage light bulb for all light fittings.
  • Circuit breakers and fuses should be the correct size current rating for their circuit.


  • CALL US TODAY 01418405236
  • Tuesday 21 May 2013

    PERIODIC INPECTION REPORTS WESTEND GLASGOW LANDLORD CERT


    Periodic Inspection Explained


    All electrical installations deteriorate with age and use. They should therefore be inspected and tested at appropriate intervals to check whether they are in a satisfactory condition for continued service. Such safety checks are commonly referred to as 'periodic inspection and testing'.
    • Reveal if any of your electrical circuits or equipment are overloaded.
    • Find any potential electric shock risks and fire hazards.
    • Identify any defective electrical work.
    • Highlight any lack of earthing or bonding.
    Tests are also carried out on wiring and fixed electrical equipment to check that they are safe. A schedule of circuits is also provided, which is invaluable for a property.
    How often is a periodic inspection required? Your electrics should be inspected and tested every:
    • 10 years for an owner-occupied home.
    • 5 years for a rented home.
    • 3 years for a caravan
    • 1 year for a swimming pool.
    Other times when a periodic inspection should be carried out are:
    • When a property is being prepared for letting.
    • Before selling a property or buying a previously-occupied property.
    Who should carry out the periodic inspection and what happens? 
    Periodic inspection and testing should be carried out only by electrically competent persons, such as registered electricians. They will check the condition of the electrics against the UK standard for the safety of electrical installations, BS 7671 – Requirements for Electrical Installations (IEE Wiring Regulations).
    The inspection takes into account all the relevant circumstances and checks on:
    • The adequacy of earthing and bonding.
    • The suitability of the switchgear and controlgear. For example, an old fusebox with a wooden back, cast-iron switches, or a mixture of both will need replacing.
    • The serviceability of switches, sockets and lighting fittings. Items that  may need replacing include: older round-pin sockets, round light switches, cables with fabric coating hanging from ceiling roses to light fittings, black switches and sockets mounted in skirting boards.
    • The type of wiring system and its condition. For example, cables coated in black rubber were phased out in the 1960s. Likewise cables coated in lead or fabric are even older and may well need replacing (modern cables use longer-lasting pvc insulation).
    • Sockets that may be used to supply portable electrical equipment for use outdoors, making sure they are protected by a suitable residual current device (RCD).
    • The presence of adequate identification and notices.
    • The extent of any wear and tear, damage or other deterioration.
    • Any changes in the use of the premises that have led to, or may lead to, unsafe conditions.
    The competent person will then issue an Electrical Installation Condition Report detailing any observed damage, deterioration, defects, dangerous conditions and any non-compliances with the present-day safety standard that might give rise to danger.
    If any dangerous or potentially dangerous condition or conditions are found, the overall condition of the electrical installation will be declared to be 'unsatisfactory', meaning that remedial action is required without delay to remove the risks to those in the premises.

    If you would like to arrange for a Periodic Inspection to be carried out, the following leaflets may be helpful:

    NEW CONSUMER UNIT FUSEBOX GLASGOW


    Fuseboxes explained

     
    Your Fusebox – the fusebox also known as consumer unit should be easy to find. You should make sure you know where it is in case you ever need to turn the electricity off in an emergency. It usually contains three things, and they are used to control and distribute electricity around your home. They are: The main switch; Fuses and/or circuit breakers; and Residual Current Devices.
    A) Main Switch – this allows you to turn off the electricity supply to your home. You might have more than one mains switch, for example if your home has electric storage heaters. In this case you may have a separate fusebox.
    B) Residual Current Devices (RCD) these are switches that trip a circuit under dangerous conditions, and instantly disconnect the electricity.
    If your home has one or more RCD, test them regularly. Just follow the instruction label, which you should find near to the RCD. It should read as follows:
    “This installation, or part of it, is protected by a device which automatically switches off the supply if an earth fault develops. Test every three months by pressing the button marked ‘T’ or ‘Test’.”
    Testing the button every three months is important. The device should switch off the electricity. You should then switch it back on to restore the electricity. Do not hold the test button for a long period if the RCD does not trip. If it doesn’t switch off the electricity when you press the button, contact a registered electrician.
    C) Circuit Breakers – these are automatic protection devices in the fusebox that switch off a circuit if they detect a fault. They are similar in size to fuses, but give more precise protection. When they ‘trip’, you can simply reset the switch. But make sure you correct the fault first.
    Fuses  (not on the image, may be found in place of circuit breakers) –rewirable fuses have a piece of special fuse wire running between two screws. When a fault or overload current flows through the fuse wire, it will become hot and melt. The melted fuse breaks the circuit, disconnecting the faulty circuit and keeping you safe.
    If your fusebox has a wooden back, cast iron switches, or a mixture of fuses it is likely that it dates back to before the 1960s and will need to be replaced.

    WESTEND GLASGOW ELECTRICIANS


    RCDs Explained By   a Professional Electrician

    An RCD, or residual current device, is a life-saving device which is designed to prevent you from getting a fatal electric shock if you touch something live, such as a bare wire. It can also provide some protection against electrical fires. RCDs offer a level of personal protection that ordinary fuses and circuit-breakers cannot provide.
    Below are the questions most commonly asked about RCDs (click to expand answers).
    What does an RCD do?
    An RCD is a sensitive safety device that switches off electricity automatically if there is a fault.
    An RCD is designed to protect against the risks of electrocution and fire caused by earth faults.  For example, if you cut through the cable when mowing the lawn and accidentally touched the exposed live wires or a faulty appliance overheats causing electric current to flow to earth.
    How does it work?
    An RCD constantly monitors the electric current flowing through one or more circuits it is used to protect. If it detects electricity flowing down an unintended path, such as through a person who has touched a live part, the RCD will switch the circuit off very quickly, significantly reducing the risk of death or serious injury.
    What are the main types of RCD?
    Fixed RCDs
    These are installed in the consumer unit (fusebox) and can provide protection to individual or groups of circuits. A fixed RCD provides the highest level of protection as it protects all the wiring and the sockets on a circuit, and any connected appliances.
    Fixed RCDs

    Socket-Outlet RCDs
    These are special socket-outlets with an RCD built into them which can be used in place of a standard socket-outlet. This type of RCD provides protection only to the person in contact with equipment, including its lead, plugged into the special socket-outlet.
    Socket-Outlet RCDs

    Portable RCDs
    These plug into any standard socket-outlet. An appliance can then be plugged into the RCD. They are useful when neither fixed nor socket-outlet RCDs are available but, as with socket-outlet RCDs, they provide protection only to the person in contact with the equipment, including its lead, plugged into the portable RCD.
    Portable RCDs
    • What are the main types of RCD?
    • Why is RCD protection important?
      RCD protection can save lives by protecting you and your family from fatal electric shock, and can provide some protection against fire.
      Every year in the UK around 70 people die and 350,000 are injured as a result of electrical accidents at home.  A Government report also indicated that, each year, about 4,000 fires caused by electricity in homes might have been prevented if RCD protection had been fitted in the consumer unit.  Despite this, more than half of UK homes – that’s 13 million - don’t yet have any, or an adequate level of, such additional protection.
      RCD protection is particularly important whilst using mains-powered electrical equipment outdoors, where there is an increased risk of electric shock.
      (To provide additional protection against electric shock, an RCD must have a rated tripping current of no more than 30 mA. The rating will be marked on the RCD.)
    How much will RCD protection cost?
    A plug-in RCD can cost as little as £10. A fixed RCD will cost more, but will provide a greater degree of protection to help keep your family safe. Installation costs will vary, so we recommend getting several quotes before proceeding.
    How do I check whether I already have fixed RCD protection?
    To check if you have fixed RCD protection, go to your consumer unit and have a look to see if there is a device with a pushbutton marked ‘T’ or ‘Test’. This ‘test’ button is part of an RCD. If an RCD is fitted, there should also be a label on or near the consumer unit stating ‘test quarterly’.
    If you have an RCD, you should check that it is functioning properly by pushing the test button every three months. When tested, the RCD should switch off the power to the areas of the home it protects. 
    The RCD (or RCDs) in your consumer unit may not cover everything in your home, such as the lighting circuits, so it’s a good idea to check - while the RCD is off - which sockets and lights are no longer working, showing that they are protected by that RCD.
    Switch the RCD back on to restore the supply.
    consumer unit RCDs
    If your RCD does not switch off the electricity supply to the protected circuits when the test button is pressed, or if it does not reset, get advice from a registered electrician.
    If you don’t have RCD protection fitted in your consumer unit, the best way to protect yourself in the short term is by using a portable RCD, which you can find in most DIY or gardening stores.  All you have to do is plug it into a socket and plug the appliance into the RCD.  The appliance will then be safer to use.
    However if, for example, you damage a hidden cable when fixing something to a wall, you won’t be protected against electric shock unless you have an RCD in your consumer unit protecting that circuit.
    Is it a requirement to install RCDs?
    In 2008 a new edition of the UK standard for the safety of electrical installations, BS 7671, came into effect. This standard calls for virtually all electrical circuits installed in homes since then to be provided with additional protection by means of an RCD.
    The Electrical Safety Council has electrical safety advice on a range of issues regarding home electrics and other areas.
    if in doubt contact an electrician westend glasgow

    Ensuring Safe Homes: The Imperative of Electrical Testing, Qualified Electricians, and EICRs for Landlords in Glasgow

    https://g.co/kgs/Fsif6i Introduction Renting out a property comes with significant responsibilities, particularly when it comes to the safet...