Benefits of electrical heating

The Benefits of Electric Heating

Electric heating is making something of a comeback. With natural gas prices soaring and uncertainty in its future availability, electric heating systems are the preferred choice of those who wish an efficient heating system and peace of mind with a more environmentally friendly alternative to gas central heating. So what are the benefits of an electric heating system?

What is Electric Heating?

Essentially, an electric heating system converts electricity into heat. Like an electric kettle, the electric boiler heats water via an element then pumps the water throughout the building’s radiator network. Domestic systems require a boiler but, because of their smaller size compared to gas boilers, they can be situated more discreetly and in smaller spaces.

Efficiency of Electric Heating

Compared to gas central heating, electrical is far more efficient and reliable:

• EASY TO INSTALL AS THERE IS NO FLUE REQUIRED.
• ELECTRIC BOILERS CAN RUN AT 100% EFFICIENCY.
• QUICK RESPONSE TIMES – HOT WATER FROM TAPS WITHIN 5-10 SECONDS, RADIATORS HEAT TO MAXIMUM TEMPERATURE WITHIN 3 MINUTES
• SIMPLE, USER FRIENDLY CONTROLS ENABLE QUICK AND EASY TEMPERATURE CONTROL, ROOM BY ROOM.
• FEW MOVING PARTS MEANS NO ANNUAL SERVICE, QUICK AND EASY REPAIR AND MAINTENANCE.
• LONGER LIFE SPAN THAN A GAS BOILER – 10 YEARS FOR GAS, 15 YEARS FOR ELECTRICITY.
• DURABLE COMPONENTS.
• GOOD SAFETY RECORD – NO NEED FOR A FLUE OR VENTILATION.
• QUIETER OPERATION THAN GAS.
• MAINS PRESSURE HOT WATER – POWER SHOWERS DON’T REQUIRE A BOOSTER PUMP.
• NO STORAGE OR HEADER TANKS REQUIRED.
• PROVIDES CONSTANT ROOM TEMPERATURES.

Helping Your Pocket

Because of the simplicity of electric boilers, electric heating users rest safe in the knowledge that there is little or no energy waste. In addition, electricity usage for heating can be monitored accurately, which helps future domestic budgets.

Users of electric central heating systems can have lower running costs than gas users as they have the option of peak avoidance tariffs to help keep running costs down, something gas users cannot use for their central heating. In the UK, two popular tariffs are Economy 7 and Economy 10. Economy 7 splits electricity use for heating into day and night (7 hours on an off-peak rate during the night). Economy 10 offers 10 hours of off-peak electricity. The beauty of these tariffs means that you have the choice of running heating and other appliances during off-peak times.

Helping the Environment

Both gas and electricity prices have suffered in recent years. Most electricity is created from gas-fired power stations so if gas prices rise so do electricity prices. However, the move towards sustainable electricity generation is well underway. Wind farms account for increasing amounts of generated electricity year on year, and governments around the world continue to collaborate to make electricity more abundant and affordable. This type of electricity generation is not only good for the environment; it is good for end users reliant on electricity for heating. Another environmental benefit of electric heating is that there are no emissions. This not only has a positive effect on the wider environment, but also within buildings as it maintains cleaner, healthier living and working spaces.

electricians paisley

SOLAR POWER SCOTLAND

Funding For Renewable Technologies in Scotland

To encourage people to install renewable technologies the Government has devised a scheme whereby financial incentives are available via grants.

For Solar Thermal and Ground Source Heat Pumps

Scottish Community Householder Renewables Initiative (SCHRI):

• FUNDING FOR HOUSEHOLDERS SET AT 30% OF THE INSTALLATION COST UP TO £4,000
• RESIDENTS IN SCOTLAND CAN CHOSE TO HAVE A SCOTTISH COMMUNITY HOUSEHOLDER RENEWABLES INITIATIVE (SCHRI) OR A LOW CARBON BUILDINGS PROGRAMME (LCBP) GRANT
• APPLICATIONS LIMITED TO ONE GRANT PER TECHNOLOGY FROM EITHER OF THESE PROGRAMMES
• MORE INFORMATION IS AVAILABLE AT THE WEBSITE FOR THE LOW CARBON BUILDINGS PROGRAMME

Planning permission for solar panels

From 6th April 2008 the Government legislation ruled that the installation will not require planning permission and will be classed as a permitted development. This may not apply if the building is within a conservation area or on a listed building).

More information is available from the Energy Saving Trust.

Building Regulations for solar panels

Building Control supervision may be required for some types of roof, particularly where load-bearing capacity is in question or where considerable aging of structure is evident. C Hanlon can help you identify and solve any issue which you have with your roof.

Further Information – the Energy Saving Trust

The Energy Saving Trust offers free, impartial, expert advice about home energy efficiency and local grant schemes.

ELECTRICIANS GLASGOW

Use a Qualified electrician!

Why You Should Use a Professional Electrician

Most people are sensible when it comes to working with electricity: they call in a professional or someone who is qualified. Carrying out electricity work isn’t like plumbing work. Anyone with basic DIY skills can change a tap. If you do it wrong, you’ll get wet. Botch an electricity job and you can die.

Check Laws and Regulations in Glasgow

NICEIC Accredited Electricians

Always do some research into laws concerning electrician work. They are changed regularly and often restrict the type of job unqualified electricians or the homeowner are allowed to carry out. In some countries, only certified people can carry out electrical installation work, or the work must be certified upon completion.

Some electrical work, such as repairs on existing circuits, can be undertaken immediately, while some work, such as adding new circuits, must be sanctioned by the local authority before the job is carried out. For this reason, it is best to always use a qualified, professional electrician who will assess the job, notify the local authority if necessary, and certify the finished work.

Safety

Certified electricians not only have the technical knowledge and expertise to carry out an electricity job to a high standard, they will also have the requisite knowledge of how to work safely. Sometimes it’s not enough just to know to switch off the electricity supply at the mains, remove relevant fuses and seal the fuse panel, or test that the supply really is off.

Professional electricians will obviously know all the correct procedures to carry out before starting the job, but they will also ensure that the working environment is safe, and work safely with additional tools and electrical components.

Differences Between Pros and DIYers

While DIY enthusiasts may think they know the ins and outs of carrying out an electrical job, technical details and experience separate the amateurs from professionals. Professional, qualified electricians will know the following:

• UP-TO-DATE REGULATIONS.
• UP-TO-DATE INDUSTRY CHANGES, E.G. CABLE CORE COLOUR CHANGES, MANDATORY TYPES OF CIRCUIT BREAKER.
• WHETHER OR NOT TO NOTIFY LOCAL AUTHORITIES ABOUT THE JOB.
• REMOVE FLOORING SAFELY AND WITH MINIMUM FUSS AND DISRUPTION.
• EXACTLY WHERE TO DRILL IN A WALL TO FIT CABLES.
• THE BEST PLACES AND WAYS TO FIT CABLES.
• WHAT THICKNESS OF CABLES TO USE.
• WHAT SIZE OF FUSE OR CIRCUIT BREAKER TO USE.
• HOW MANY SOCKETS CAN BE RUN FROM ONE FUSE.

Check Qualifications

Would you trust someone who is unqualified to rewire your home or business, or repair a faulty circuit? Make sure the electrician you use is fully qualified. In the UK, make sure the electrician is either NICEIC, ECA or ELECSA certified. This will give you peace of mind knowing that the job will be done safely and no damage will occur to your property.
EICR Glasgow

Landlord Certificates Glasgow

Central Heating Options

Central Heating – What’s The Right System For You?

When it comes to choosing a central heating system, it pays to be informed. Heating your home, especially in colder climates, is of huge importance to not only personal health, but also the health of the building and your bank balance.

With various types of central heating available, each offering different benefits, let’s look at three of the most common: gas, oil and LPG (Liquid Petroleum Gas). All three are ideal for home heating needs – central heating, water, fires, ovens and cookers, but vary in suitability, installation and efficiency.

Gas

Gas is the most common type of central heating system. Also known as a “wet system”, a gas-fired boiler heats up the water which is then pumped round the radiators, one, sometimes two in each room, as well as providing hot water for taps. It is probably the most affordable system, and is also safe and reliable if serviced often.

Gas central heating is highly efficient and offers a good return on units of energy used. Efficiency does depend on radiator type, however, with the two most common types being cast iron and aluminium. Radiators made from cast iron are the best option because they retain heat well and continue to disperse it long after the heating is turned off.

The efficiency of gas systems must be weighed against other factors, however. Gas prices are increasing as the supply gets scarcer. But if your property is unfit for on-site storage of fuels, and you already have a gas supply, it may be your only option, and if your home is not already connected to the gas network, connection can be costly and disruptive.

Oil

Oil heating systems are viable if your property is not connected to mains gas or live in rural areas. They operate similarly to gas systems as the fuel heats the water which is then pumped round the home, and should have the same thermostatic controls and timers. The biggest difference is that the oil needs to be stored in a tank, which can be over or underground, and fresh supplies delivered.

Like natural gas, oil is very efficient, giving a good return for energy used. Some manufacturers claim 97% efficiency*, which is good from both heating and money-saving points of view.

*http://www.nef.org.uk/energysaving/oilheating.htm

One main misconception about oil central heating is that it is smelly. This may have been the case with older steel tanks, which are prone to corrosion if not cleaned out regularly, but most modern tanks are made from plastic, extremely hard wearing and virtually odour free.

LPG

LPG has a growing popularity when it comes to choosing a central heating system. From a green point of view, compared to other fossil fuels, LPG has the lowest level of carbon emissions, poses no pollution threat to the soil or water, and burns very cleanly with few emissions.

Like oil systems, the fuel needs to be stored in tanks or cylinders, which makes it a more viable option for rural properties or properties with plenty of land storage space, although LPG tanks are usually stored underground, which means minimal impact on the look of the land. Also, tank installation is cheaper than oil tank installation.

Making the Choice

When you choose a central heating system, become informed, weigh up the pros and cons of each system, contact experienced and reputable heating installation company for advice and quotation, and you’ll have peace of mind knowing that you have the right system for your home; one that is efficient and cost effective.

Pat testing Giffnock Glasgow

Maintaining portable electric equipment in low-risk environments
Introduction

This leaflet explains the simple and sensible precautions that need to be taken to prevent danger from portable or movable electrical equipment in low-risk environments, such as offices, shops, some parts of hotels and residential care homes.
It also provides examples of this sort of equipment to help you decide what you need to do to maintain portable appliances in your workplace.

What does the law say?

You must maintain electrical equipment if it can cause danger, but the law* does not say how you must do this or how often. You should decide the level of maintenance needed according to the risk of an item becoming faulty, and how the equipment is constructed. You should consider:

• the increased risk if the equipment isn’t used correctly, isn’t suitable for the job, or is used in a harsh environment; and
  
• if the item is not double insulated, for example some kettles are earthed but some pieces of hand-held equipment, such as hairdryers, are usually double insulated. See page 4 for more information on earthed equipment and double insulated equipment.
  This includes any electrical equipment your employees use at work, whether it is their own or supplied by you. You have a joint responsibility to maintain any equipment used by your employees that is either leased (eg a photocopier) or provided by a contractor (but not equipment both provided and used by a contractor).
  You will need to check periodically if any work needs doing. How you do this depends on the type of equipment.
  

giffnock

Not every electrical item needs a portable appliance test (PAT)

In some cases, a simple user check and visual inspection is enough, eg checking for loose cables or signs of fire damage and, if possible, checking inside the plug for internal damage, bare wires and the correct fuse.
Other equipment, eg a floor cleaner or kettle, may need a portable appliance test, but not necessarily every year.

* Electricity at Work Regulations 1989

Page 1 of 6

Health and Safety Executive

How do I ensure the safety of electrical equipment?

• Encourage employees to look at the supply cable to the electrical equipment before they use it (user check).
  
• Encourage employees to look at electrical equipment before they use it (user check).
  
• Make sure that all portable equipment is visually inspected at initial intervals which could be between six months and four years, depending on the type of equipment. See the last bullet point on this list and Table 1 at the end of this leaflet for more information.
  
• Arrange for equipment that is not double insulated to have a portable appliance test (including leads) at initial intervals which could be between one and five years, depending on the type of equipment.
  
• Ensure that damaged or faulty equipment is recognised, removed from use without delay and either:
  ▬ repaired by someone competent (ie with suitable training, skills and
  knowledge for the task to prevent injury to themselves or others); or
  ▬ disposed of to prevent its further use – consult your local authority about
  arrangements for disposing of electrical equipment.
  
• Review your maintenance system to determine whether you could decrease or
  increase your inspection and/or testing intervals. You may find it useful to keep records of all inspections and tests, and to label equipment with the result and date of the test, but there is no legal requirement to do either of these things.
  Table 1 at the end of this leaflet gives an initial indication of where a visual inspection should be sufficient and where testing may be needed in order to comply with the law. It also suggests initial intervals for the different types of checks.
  
  User checks, visual inspection and portable appliance tests
  
  
  User checks
  
  These should be carried out before most electrical equipment is used, with the equipment disconnected. Employees should look for:
  

• damage to the lead including fraying, cuts or heavy scuffing, eg from floor box covers;
  
• damage to the plug, eg to the cover or bent pins;
  
• tape applied to the lead to join leads together;
  
• coloured wires visible where the lead joins the plug (the cable is not being
  gripped where it enters the plug);
  
• damage to the outer cover of the equipment itself, including loose parts or
  screws;
  
• signs of overheating, such as burn marks or staining on the plug, lead or piece
  of equipment;
  
• equipment that has been used or stored in unsuitable conditions, such as wet
  or dusty environments or where water spills are possible; and
  
• cables trapped under furniture or in floor boxes.
  
  Visual inspections
  
  To carry out a visual inspection you don’t need to be an electrician, but you do need to know what to look for and you must also have sufficient knowledge to avoid danger to yourself and others.
  Simple training can equip you (or a member of staff) with some basic electrical knowledge to enable you to carry out a visual inspection competently.
  

Maintaining portable electric equipment in low-risk environments Page 2 of 6

As part of the visual inspection, you should consider whether:

• the electrical equipment is being used in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions;
  
• the equipment is suitable for the job;
  
• there has been any change of circumstances; and
  
• the user has reported any issues.
  The visual inspection should include the checks carried out by the user and, where possible, will include removing the plug cover and checking internally that:
  

• there are no signs of internal damage, overheating or water damage to the plug;
  
• the correct fuse is in use and it’s a proper fuse, not a piece of wire, nail etc;
  
• the wires including the earth, where fitted, are attached to the correct terminal
  (see Figure 1);
  
• the terminal screws are tight;
  
• the cord grip is holding the outer part (sheath) of the cable tightly; and
  
• no bare wire is visible other than at the terminals.
  

For equipment/cables fitted with moulded plugs only the fuse can be checked.

Health and Safety Executive

Portable appliance test (PAT)

A portable appliance test does not need to be carried out by an electrician, but greater knowledge and experience is needed than for inspection alone, and the person performing the test must have the right equipment for the task. They should know how to use the test equipment and how to interpret the results.

Maintaining portable electric equipment in low-risk environments Page 3 of 6

Health and Safety Executive

It is important to continue to carry out user checks on electrical equipment that has been tested. This is because portable appliance testing can only give an indication of the safety of an appliance at the time of the test and does not imply that the item will be safe for a further period of time.
The person carrying out the test should not assess when the next test will be due as this decision should be 
made by you on a risk assessment basis.

Portable and movable equipment

A portable or movable electric appliance is any item that can be moved, either connected or disconnected from an electrical supply. Portable or movable items generally have a lead (cable) and a plug.
Portable and movable equipment includes the following:

• electrical equipment that can be easily moved around, such as kettles, vacuum cleaners, floor polishers, portable heaters, fans, desk lamps, some TVs, radios, some small electric cookers, PC projectors, small appliances such as irons, hair dryers and kitchen equipment including food mixers, toasters etc;
  
• larger items that could be moved (but only rarely), eg water chillers, fridges, microwaves, photocopiers, vending machines, washing machines, electric cookers, fax machines, desktop computers, electric beds etc are considered to be movable items;
  
• hand-held items, such as hairdryers, that do not have a plug but have been wired in (or fixed) are still considered to be portable appliances, but large electrical items, such as water boilers that are wired in, are not portable appliances as they are not designed to be moved and would come under the scope of fixed installation maintenance;
  
• mobile phone and other battery-charging equipment that is plugged into the mains (but the phones themselves and any other battery-operated equipment would not be included); and
  
• extension leads, multi-way adaptors and connection leads. 
  
  Earthed equipment and double insulated equipment
  
  When deciding whether to test electrical equipment, you need to consider the type of construction of the equipment in use. There are two basic types of electrical equipment construction – Class I (earthed) and Class II (double insulated).
  
  Earthed equipment
  
  For safety reasons, Class I equipment has an earth connection. If there is a fault within the equipment there is a possibility that the outside of the equipment could cause an electric shock if the earth connection is not there. As a result, it is recommended that Class I equipment has a portable appliance test to ensure the earth connection is sound.
  
  Double insulated equipment
  
  Class II equipment is sometimes referred to as ‘double insulated’ equipment. This means that there is extra insulation within the construction of the equipment to prevent accidental contact with live parts, even if there is a fault.
  Class II equipment does not need an earth connection to maintain safety. It will not need a portable appliance test, although you should ensure that user checks and visual inspections are carried out as the integrity of the equipment casing is a key safety feature.
  

• ▬  Cables, leads and plugs connected to Class II equipment should be maintained as part of that equipment. Cables, leads and plugs not dedicated to an item of equipment should be maintained as individual items as appropriate.
  
• ▬  Over time, when you look at the results of user checks, visual inspections and, where appropriate, portable appliance tests, you will notice trends. These may tell you that you need to look at or test electrical equipment less (or more) often, depending on the number of problems being found. Some examples of how to do this are shown on our website (www.hse.gov.uk/electricity/faq-portable-appliance-testing.htm).
  
• ▬  If electrical equipment is grouped together for testing at the same time, you should use the shortest testing interval in the group rather than the longest. Alternatively, it may be appropriate to group your electrical equipment by testing interval.
  

Smoke and Carbon monoxide Alarm

A Landlords Guide to: The Smoke and Carbon Monoxide Alarm (SCOTLAND) Regulations 2015

Introduction

The legislation introduced in October 2015 has helped to standardise and clarify the responsibilities of landlords when it comes to installing smoke and carbon monoxide (CO) alarms by a qualified electrician to protect their residents. Existing rules meant that owners of property built prior to June 1992 were not legally obliged to have smoke alarms installed. The updated legislation ensures that ALL rental properties and their residents are adequately protected against fire and carbon monoxide, and our guide is intended to help you interpret these rules.

Why has this change been made?

The legislation is part of a wider effort to increase fire and carbon monoxide safety across the UK. The statistics below, drawn from a variety of sources, highlight why the government has been so keen to redress the imbalance between protection levels for private tenants versus the rest of the housing sector.

Smoke alarm coverage in privately rented accommodation stands at 83%. This is the lowest of any housing type.Source Official Impact Assessment conducted by government prior to announcement of legislation.

Between April 2013 and March 2014, 97 people died and 1900 were injured in domestic fires affecting properties where no smoke alarm was present.Source: Fire Statistic Great Britain 2013-14

The risk of a CO related incident occurring in the private rental sector is three times greater than the risk for other housing types.Source: Gas Safety Trust Carbon Monoxide Incident Report 2012

A study of 1758 emergency department patients displaying symptoms that could be associated with CO poisoning found that only 16% had a CO alarm installed in their home.Source: BMJ (formerly British Medical Journal) Article 2012

Who does the legislation apply to?

The Smoke and Carbon Monoxide Alarm (England) Regulations 2015 apply to all Landlords within England bar a few exceptions. Those exempt from the legislation include:

• Landlords sharing accommodation with their tenants
• Landlords granting a right of occupation for a term of 7 years or more
• Landlords who are registered providers of social housing

Responsibility for the enforcement of the legislation lies with the relevant local housing authority, and breaches of the guidance can be punished by a fine of up to £5000.

How will this affect me?

Many landlords already provide excellent protection by installing smoke alarms throughout their properties. However, carbon monoxide detectors have not necessarily been considered part of a landlord’s duty of care in the past. The statistic that residents of rental properties are three times more likely to suffer a CO related incident than a homeowner highlights how important the provision of CO alarms is, and the new legislation is intended to redress this imbalance.

Different types of properties are affected to different degrees. Under the previous regulations, some types of properties were assessed to different standards in terms of smoke alarms. Whilst this may still hold true, especially for HMOs which come under greater scrutiny, there is now a universal baseline in terms of smoke and CO alarm protection. The table below breaks down the consequences of the legislation and identifies best practice for a range of common property types:

Property Type	Effect of Legislation	Best Practice
Assured Tenancy / Assured Shorthold Tenancy(Pre 1992 construction)	Legal responsibility to ensure CO alarms are installed. Must provide smoke alarms on every floor.	An interconnected system of longlife or mains smoke alarmsthroughout property. CO alarms present in all high risk rooms.
Assured Tenancy / Assured Shorthold Tenancy(Post 1992 construction)	Legal responsibility to ensure CO alarms are installed.
HMO1 or 2 Story. Individual floor area of no more than 200sqm	Legal responsibility to ensure CO alarms are installed.	A fire risk assessment to identify an appropriate mains poweredinterconnected smoke alarm system. CO alarms present in all high risk rooms.
HMO3 Stories or higher	Legal responsibility to ensure CO alarms are installed.	A fire risk assessment to identify an appropriate fire alarm systemwith a central panel. CO alarms present in all high risk rooms.

Where exactly should I install the alarms?

The new rules make the provision of both smoke and carbon monoxide detectors compulsory, but don't explicitly state exactly where landlords should site them. At present the legislation dictates that a landlord must ensure:

"a smoke alarm is equipped on each storey of the premises on which there is a room used wholly or partly as living accommodation"

"a carbon monoxide alarm is equipped in any room of the premises which is used wholly or partly as living accommodation and contains a solid fuel burning combustion appliance"

These two directives allow you to accurately calculate the amount of detectors required relative to the types of rooms on each floor, but fail to give guidance as to the exact placement or the type of smoke detector.

There are, however, a few general pieces of advice we can offer to help you establish the best locations for your alarms and the most suitable type of detector. It is impossible to offer advice that covers all eventualities, but these rules of thumb should give you a solid foundation from which to decide where to install your alarms.

Smoke alarm placement tips-

• If you only have one alarm per floor, cover any downstairs hallways with optical smoke alarms and any landings on subsequent floors with ionisation smoke alarms. This setup plays to the strengths of each sensor type to ensure a quick response to any fires without causing unnecessary false alarms.
• Make sure the alarms are audible from any bedrooms.
• Site your smoke alarms at least 30cm from any walls. This avoids the ‘dead air’ zone where smoke can take longer to reach sensors.
• Avoid placing alarms within 30cm of any light fittings or obstructions on the ceiling.
• Consider installing an additional heat alarm in the kitchen, but never rely on this to protect an entire floor as heat alarms are only effective over a short distance.

Carbon monoxide alarm placement tips-

• Site your alarms more than 2 metres, and ideally less than 4 metres away from any appliances.
• If wall mounting your detector, ensure the device is roughly 1.5m from ground level.
• Site your alarms at least 30cm from any walls, and avoid placing them near to doors and windows.
• Make sure the alarms are audible from any bedrooms.

Whilst it is ultimately up to you as an individual to consider the best placement for any alarms within your properties, we hope the guidance above will help you make those decisions.

Who is responsible for maintaining the alarms?

In basic terms, landlords must ensure that alarms are provided and working, but routine maintenance and testing then falls to the occupants of the property. Should the alarms develop a fault or expire during a tenancy it remains the responsibility of a landlord to replace them.

The legislation states that a landlord must make certain that:

"checks are made by or on behalf of the landlord to ensure that each prescribed alarm is in proper working order on the day the tenancy begins if it is a new tenancy"

Once the alarms have been established as working, whether a new tenancy or a tenancy overlapping the introduction of the legislation, many landlords ask tenants to sign a document confirming that alarms have been tested in their presence. This can also be used to clarify for the benefit of the tenants that the duty of maintenance falls to them from that point forwards.

What happens if I don’t comply?

Local housing authorities across England now have the power to serve remedial notices to any landlord they have “reasonable grounds to believe” is not in compliance with the regulations. Failure to take appropriate remedial action within the specified timeframe (usually 28 days) will leave you open to a fine of up to £5000 per property.

electricians

WES Electrical Southside Glasgow

From 1st December 2015, private landlords are responsible for ensuring that an electrical safety inspection of their property is carried out by a registered electrician at least every five years.

The new legislation explained

As of 1st December 2015, under sections 13(4A) and 19B(4) of the Housing (Scotland) Act 2006, private landlords in Scotland will be required by law to ensure that their properties are electrically safe.

This covers:

• Any installations in the property for the supply of electricity
• Electrical fixtures and fittings
• Any appliances provided by the landlord under the tenancy.

Landlords must be able to prove that all of the above are in a reasonable state of repair and in proper working order.

So what do landlords need to do?

Landlords are required to ensure that regular electrical safety inspections are carried out by a competent person, and that anything that fails to pass the inspection is replaced or repaired immediately.

As a minimum, an electrical safety inspection must be carried out:

• Before a tenancy starts, and
• During the tenancy, at intervals of no more than five years from the date of the previous inspection.

A copy of the most recent electrical safety inspection reports must be provided to both new and retained tenants.

The person who conducts the checks must be employed by a firm that is a member of an accredited registration scheme operated by a body recognised by the Scottish Government – this will usually mean that they are registered with NICEIC or a member firm of the Electrical Contractors’ Association of Scotland (SELECT).

Both the NICEIC and the Electrical Contractors' Association of Scotland (SELECT) provide online tools for finding local members.

Transitional Rules

the Scottish government guidelines details the transitional rules for the scheme.

• It requires any new tenant to receive an EICR if they take up their tenancy after the 1st December 2015.
• Any existing tenant to receive a copy of an EICR before the 1st December 2016 (unless their tenancy will end before that date).
• If an EICR (or new installation certificate) is available for the property that was produced since 1st January 2012, this is still in its perceived 5 year lifecycle this is still valid (for 5 years from issue).  These do not need any PAT report.
• Any EICR produced after 1st December 2015 will also need Appliance test reports.

What happens during the electrical safety inspection?

An electrical safety inspection has two parts:

• An Electrical Installation Condition Report (EICR) – formerly known as a Periodic Inspection Report (PIR) – on the safety of the electrical installations, fixtures and fittings.
• A Portable Appliance Test (PAT) on any portable appliances that you have provided by the landlord.

For the Electrical Installation Condition Report, the registered electrician will carry out checks of installations for the supply of electricity, electrical fittings (including but not limited to switches, sockets and light fittings) and fixed electrical equipment (including but not limited to boilers, panel and storage heaters and hard-wired smoke and fire detectors).

As a result, the electrician will produce an EICR document that highlights any problems using different classifications: code C1 indicating ‘danger present’, code C2 indicating ‘potentially dangerous’ and code FI indicating ‘further investigation required’. Any remedial work that is undertaken as a result of the inspection will then be recorded on a Minor Electrical Installation Works Certificate.